Patagonia Road Trip: Self-Drive Ruta 40 from Bariloche to Ushuaia

· 8 min read Itinerary
Open highway through Patagonian mountains near San Martín de los Andes, Argentina

Driving Ruta 40 through Patagonia is one of the great road trips on earth - a 2,300 km spine running south from the wine-and-mountains Lake District near Bariloche to the end of the world at Ushuaia. The route crosses Andean passes, traverses the Patagonian steppe in silence broken only by wind, and deposits you at glaciers, trekking capitals, and penguin colonies along the way.

No bus schedule dictates your stops. No tour operator decides how long you linger at the Perito Moreno Glacier. A self-drive gives you that freedom - which is precisely why this is the preferred way to see southern Argentina for travellers with 14–21 days to spend.

Route Overview

The classic route splits into three distinct legs:

  • Lake District (Days 1–3): Bariloche → El Bolsón → Esquel
  • Central Patagonia on Ruta 40 (Days 4–7): Esquel → Perito Moreno (town) → El Calafate
  • Austral Patagonia (Days 8–14): El Calafate → El Chaltén → Río Gallegos → Ushuaia

Total distance: approximately 2,300 km excluding detours. Total driving time (no stops): around 28–32 hours spread across two weeks.

Renting a Car in Patagonia

Pick up at San Carlos de Bariloche (BRC) Airport - it has the widest selection and most competitive rates at the start of the route. Drop-off options are limited in the far south; most travellers fly back from Ushuaia (USH) and arrange a one-way rental upfront.

Named operators at Bariloche Airport (prices approximate, as of 2026):

  • Hertz BRC - reliable international chain with cross-border permits available. Economy car (Chevrolet Sail or similar): from USD 55/day. 4WD SUV (Chevrolet Tracker or Ford EcoSport): from USD 85/day.
  • Dollar Rent A Car BRC - competitive rates, cross-border available. Economy: from USD 50/day. SUV: from USD 80/day.
  • Avis BRC - strong for one-way rentals. Economy: from USD 58/day. SUV: from USD 90/day.
  • Movil Rent (local) - cheaper for local-only rentals (no cross-border). Economy from USD 38/day, but no Tierra del Fuego permit.

Essential extras to request when booking:

  • Full coverage with no excess - gravel on central Ruta 40 chips windscreens regularly. A zero-excess policy saves ARS 150,000–250,000 (approximately USD 150–250) if you crack a screen.
  • Second spare tyre - mandatory for the central Ruta 40 unpaved section. Not all operators supply it; ask explicitly.
  • Cross-border permit - required for Chile crossings on the way to Ushuaia. Add USD 30–60 to the booking cost.

Book online three to four weeks ahead for November–February travel; availability drops sharply after late November.

Fuel on Ruta 40

YPF (Yacimientos Petrolíferos Fiscales) is the dominant chain and the only reliable option on rural Ruta 40. Shell and Axion appear in larger towns only.

Both nafta (petrol) and diesel are available at most YPF stations. Diesel is generally 15–20% cheaper per litre and is the standard fuel for the larger SUVs most travellers rent. Confirm your vehicle’s fuel type before leaving the lot - diesel and nafta pumps look identical to the eye but not to your engine.

Fuel prices as of mid-2026: approximately ARS 1,400–1,600 per litre for regular nafta; ARS 1,200–1,400 for diesel. At current exchange rates this is roughly USD 1.30–1.50/litre. Prices fluctuate with inflation - always fill up when you see a station on the central and southern legs.

Critical fuel gap: The stretch from Gobernador Costa to Perito Moreno (town) runs approximately 420 km with very limited services. Fill to the brim in Gobernador Costa and carry a 10-litre jerry can. The same applies between Bajo Caracoles and Tres Lagos.

Leg 1: Bariloche to Esquel (Days 1–3)

Bariloche → El Bolsón: 125 km, 1.5 hours on RN 258. A scenic warm-up through lenga beech forests and the Río Azul valley. El Bolsón is a laid-back market town worth a lunch stop - the artisan fair on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays is one of Argentina’s best.

El Bolsón → Esquel: 165 km, 2 hours on RN 258 continuing south. The road passes through the Cholila valley (Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hid here in the early 1900s - their cabin is signposted). Esquel is the gateway to Parque Nacional Los Alerces, home to 3,000-year-old alerces trees and some of the most pristine lake scenery in Patagonia. Entry as of 2026: approximately ARS 8,500 per person (around USD 8.50).

Accommodation in Esquel (per night, as of 2026):

  • Budget: Hostel El Encuentro - dorm from ARS 7,000 (≈ USD 7); private doubles from ARS 20,000 (≈ USD 20)
  • Mid: La Posada de Don Nadie - doubles from ARS 45,000 (≈ USD 45); excellent breakfast included
  • Splurge: Los Troncos Hotel Boutique - doubles from ARS 95,000 (≈ USD 95); lakeside cabins available

Leg 2: Esquel to El Calafate Across the Central Pampa (Days 4–7)

This is the longest and most demanding section. The road becomes gravel between Esquel and Perito Moreno town and again on sections further south. Distances are vast and services sparse.

Esquel → Perito Moreno (town): 850 km, 9–11 hours (mostly gravel, two-day drive recommended). Break overnight at Río Mayo (basic roadside accommodation; ask at the YPF station) or push through and stop at Perito Moreno town itself. The landscape here is pure Patagonian steppe - grey scrubland, condors overhead, and almost no other traffic. It is either bleak or magnificent depending on your state of mind.

Perito Moreno → El Calafate: 630 km, 7–8 hours on RN 40 (paved south of Los Antiguos). Total for this two-day sub-leg: approximately 1,480 km.

Accommodation in El Calafate (per night, as of 2026):

  • Budget: Hostel I Keu Ken - dorm from ARS 12,000 (≈ USD 12); doubles from ARS 30,000 (≈ USD 30)
  • Mid: Los Pinos Cabañas - doubles from ARS 65,000 (≈ USD 65); good self-catering option
  • Splurge: Esplendor by Wyndham El Calafate - doubles from ARS 180,000 (≈ USD 180); glacier views from upper rooms

The Perito Moreno Glacier (Day-Trip From El Calafate)

The glacier is 78 km from El Calafate on RN 11 - an easy hour’s drive. Entry to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares at the glacier entrance: approximately ARS 11,500 per person as of 2026 (check parquesnacionales.gob.ar for current rates). The boardwalk system is free once inside. Plan 3–4 hours minimum. Early morning (before 9am) gives quieter catwalks and better light on the ice face.

Leg 3: El Calafate to El Chaltén (Day-Trip or Overnight)

El Calafate → El Chaltén: 220 km, 2.5 hours on RN 40 north. El Chaltén is Argentina’s trekking capital, built entirely for access to the Fitz Roy and Torre massifs in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (north section). Entry to the national park here is free; the Laguna de los Tres trail to the base of Fitz Roy is 22 km return, 6–8 hours, and one of the best day hikes on the continent.

Accommodation in El Chaltén (per night, as of 2026):

  • Budget: Albergue Patagonia - dorm from ARS 10,000 (≈ USD 10)
  • Mid: Hostería El Pilar - doubles from ARS 80,000 (≈ USD 80); remote farm setting, 17 km from town
  • Splurge: Explora El Chaltén - doubles from ARS 500,000+ (≈ USD 500+); all-inclusive with guided hikes

Border Crossings to Reach Ushuaia

There is no road from Argentine mainland Patagonia to Ushuaia that stays entirely in Argentina. Two options:

Option A: Via Punta Arenas (Chile) - Most Common El Calafate → Río Gallegos → Punta Arenas: approximately 570 km, 6 hours. Cross at Paso Dorotea (Río Gallegos to Puerto Natales) or Paso Integración Austral (Río Turbio). Punta Arenas → Porvenir by ferry (2.5 hours, Cruz Austral or Melinka ferry, book ahead in January–February): then Porvenir → Ushuaia via RN 3 on Argentine Tierra del Fuego, 560 km, 7 hours including border re-entry at San Sebastián.

Option B: Via Primera Angostura Ferry From Punta Arenas, cross the Magellan Strait at Primera Angostura by vehicle ferry (20 minutes, very frequent). Continue south on Chilean Tierra del Fuego and re-enter Argentina at San Sebastián. This avoids Porvenir and cuts the Tierra del Fuego driving distance significantly.

Total Río Gallegos → Ushuaia distance either way: approximately 940–1,050 km, two days with a Punta Arenas night stop.

Accommodation in Ushuaia (per night, as of 2026):

  • Budget: Galeazzi-Basily B&B - doubles from ARS 55,000 (≈ USD 55)
  • Mid: Las Hayas Ushuaia Resort - doubles from ARS 130,000 (≈ USD 130)
  • Splurge: Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa - doubles from ARS 320,000 (≈ USD 320); hillside setting above the city

Best Season to Drive

November–March is the window. October can work in the north (Bariloche and Lake District) but the southern pampa and Ushuaia are cold and windy. January and February see peak crowds at El Calafate and El Chaltén - book all accommodation at least three months ahead. December is often the best compromise: long daylight hours (up to 19 hours at Ushuaia), moderate crowds, and road conditions at their best.

Avoid June–August for the central Ruta 40 gravel section - snow can make it impassable and services are minimal or closed.

Total Budget Estimate

For two people sharing costs over 14 days (mid-range tier, as of 2026):

ItemApproximate cost
Car hire (14 days, SUV with full insurance)USD 1,100–1,350
Fuel (≈ 2,500 km)USD 280–340
National park entriesUSD 60–80 per person
Accommodation (14 nights, mid-range)USD 55–85/night
Food (self-catering + restaurant meals)USD 30–50/person/day

Total per-person budget (mid-range): approximately USD 1,800–2,200 for the two-week drive, excluding flights.

Book Your Trip

Book ahead

Book the key experiences

Turn this itinerary into reality. Secure your spots: popular tours sell out 2–3 days ahead.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a 4WD for the Patagonia road trip on Ruta 40?
For the Lake District (Bariloche–Esquel), a standard sedan works fine. For the unpaved central section of Ruta 40 between Esquel and Perito Moreno, a high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended and many rental agencies require one. Always take out full insurance with no excess if you plan gravel roads.
Can I take a rental car from Argentina into Chile?
Yes, but you must declare the cross-border intention when booking and pay a border permit fee - typically USD 30–60 per operator as of 2026. Not all local operators allow it. The big chains (Hertz, Dollar, Avis) generally do. Inform them you plan to cross to Punta Arenas and/or Tierra del Fuego.
What is the longest fuel gap on Ruta 40?
The stretch between Gobernador Costa and Perito Moreno (approximately 420 km on mostly unpaved road) has only two or three fuel stops. Fill up every time you see a YPF station and carry a 10-litre jerry can as backup. Running out of petrol on the central pampa is not a minor inconvenience.
When does Ruta 40 close in Patagonia?
The paved sections are open year-round. The unpaved central section between Gobernador Costa and Bajo Caracoles can be impassable in heavy snow (June–August) and muddy after heavy rain. November–March is by far the safest window. Always check Vialidad Nacional (vialidad.gob.ar) for current road conditions before departure.

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